Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve Champagne NV (6 x 750mL), Champagne, France.

Charles Heidsieck may be both the best and the most famous of the three Hiedsieck domains, but it was the last of the three to get into the game. It was in 1851, sixty-six years after Florens-Louis Heidsieck first laid the foundation for the Heidsieck clan that Charles-Camille Heidsieck established the domain. In 1857, Charles-Camille made his first trip to America. There he was quickly dubbed “Champagne Charlie” by the Yanks and grew to be so well known that his name appeared in music hall songs performed around the country.

For a while Charles Heidsieck was owned by Henriot, but it was sold in 1985 to the Rémy-Cointreau Group. Daniel Thibault was Chef de caves here, and at Piper-Heidsieck, prior to his premature death in February 2002. He is missed by the entire wine world. Before the incomparable Thibault came on to the scene, Heidsieck owned no vineyards of their own. Today they own thirty hectares at Ambonnay, Bouzy and Oger.

The non-vintage Champagne Brut Resérve Mis en Cave is currently among the best on the market, and the vintage wine is always a joy to follow. The decision to close down Champagne Charlie and to substitute Blanc de Millénaires for the prestige Champagne has been praised by many.

All the wines are beautifully toasted. It will not be an easy task for Daniel Thibault's successor to fill the gap left by this winemaker who is already a legend. The 96 is particularly interesting since it was so inferior when it was released, but is so wonderfully roasted and so delightfully complex now.